Heading Back
There are two home truths about travel you should write down somewhere, perhaps keep tucked inside your passport wallet for safekeeping. One is there is no better time to travel than in the moment and the other is the best way to get to know a culture, is to live within it.
Australians travel, particularly Generation Y, a lot. We do GAP years, internships, coming-of-age backpack trips that usually end up in London (where we make the most of those handy ancestor visas). Anyone who has spent more than two days in a big foreign city can vouch for the fact you’re bound to hear our flat drawl emanating from somewhere – usually a pub. In fact, I will never forget gazing at the Venus de Milo, only to have my reverie snapped unceremoniously, by the unmistakable mewing of an Australian man, saying ‘look, it’s Simon de Milo’ and posing in a pool of sunlight by a window. Not even Venus is sacred.
Not only do we travel, but a lot of Australians make other countries their second home – particularly London and anywhere in Asia – whether it be because of work, a loved one, study or simply because they’ve fallen in love with the country itself. And it is these people who have the best brains to pick, when it comes to getting an idea of your next destination. They have fully immersed themselves in a different culture and often a different language, and they have the most coveted travel knowledge of all – the knowledge of a local.
These four travellers have all lived in another country for a period of time, and they’re all heading back. Covering Istanbul, Belgrade, Dubai and London, they offer expert tips on what to expect and what to enjoy. And for the others who are jetting off somewhere for the first time, they’ve done all the research for you.
TURKEY
Who: Sean Behringer, 24
Hometown: Sydney, Australia
My last trip was … Egypt, Jordan and Syria, touring around after 5 months as an exchange student in Turkey.
My next destination is … I really hope to get back to Turkey, and also make it to Iran. (At the time of publishing, Sean was last spotted gadding about Berlin).
Because … Having travelled through a lot of the Middle East, I have developed a great affection for the culture, traditions and history of that part of the world. It’s becoming more and more popular as a tourist destination, and I want to get there before it loses its charm. I remember in Turkey going to small towns that really hadn’t seen many tourists and everyone wanting to talk to me and inviting me to have tea with them. You get experiences in places like that you wouldn’t find in Paris or Phuket.
Been there before? Iran, no, but I lived in Turkey for six months.
Status: Expert
LIVING IN TURKEY
Turkey and more specifically Istanbul, where I was based, is now my favourite place in the world. Besides being the most beautiful city, surrounding the ever busy bosphorous, it also has an amazing history, culture and vibe. Istanbul is fascinating because it is simultaneously both steeped in centuries of history, but also very modern and chic. The Turkish culture is very warm and welcoming – if you can go to a Turk’s house for dinner the food they give you will be amazing, a thousand times better than anything you can get at restaurants. In terms of places to go definitely make it to Cappadocia which has some of the most amazing scenery in the world especially if you take one of the sunrise balloon flights. Within Istanbul I have too many favourites. For a night out go out to the heart of modern Turkey Taksim which has many, many bars and great restaurants, often with terraces and bands that play more traditional Turkish music. There are also newer bars, such as the ultra chic 360 which has amazing views over the city. Head down to Ortakoy which is a very pretty area of Istanbul right on the bosphorous, also with great food and markets on a Saturday. Of course the ‘big three’ you must see – the blue mosque, haghai Sophia and the Grand Bazaar. I would also recommend the Suleymaniye mosque which is on the same grand scale as the blue mosque but a lot quieter.
THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL
I think the best way to travel, is to go slowly – which I have not always been able to, inhibited by both time and money. But being able to spend 4 months in the one place and make friends and see the many aspects of the place I was living in, really meant that I got a whole different view of the city and country every day. So when people say to me now I am home how was Turkey, it is such a hard question to answer because spending time there makes your views of it all so complex – but that is of course a good thing, and what travel is all about.
FAVOURITE DESTINATION
Turkey by far, but I also loved Vietnam and Italy.
SERBIA
Who: Mirko Pavlovic, 28
Hometown: Sydney, Australia, by way of Belgrade, Serbia
My last trip was … New Zealand.
My next destination is … Belgrade, Serbia
Because … I grew up there and want to go back to see it again.
Been there before? I was born there, and lived there for fifteen years before moving to Australia.
Status: Expert
LIVING IN BELGRADE
Serbian people are incredibly passionate and emotional. You have to know that. We are dramatic and loud, much like the Italians, or Greek. We are also very family-oriented and we love our food. Serbian cuisine is this fantastic fusion of Germanic, Oriental, Italian, even Hungarian food, because it has seen so many cultures pass through it.
Living in Belgrade, or even just visiting it, it is impossible not to get a feel for its incredible sense of history. The oldest findings of a civilisation, thought to be 6000 years old, can be found in Belgrade; more than a dozen Roman emperors were born in Serbia; there is extraordinary medieval architecture, an beautiful art galleries and museums. You’ll also notice there are inconsistencies in its appearance – Belgrade has been destroyed thirty times, so there is a noticeable difference between the old and new sections. It’s a very cosmopolitan city, there is always something happening and something to do.
WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU’RE VISITING
An insane nightlife. Belgrade is a city of just over 2 million people and it has over three and a half thousand nightclubs – Serbians love to party, and the night won’t start until midnight. You’ll notice the women are very much into fashion, and style conscious, particularly if you take a stroll down Knez Mihailora, which is a must-do whilst you’re visiting. Start at ‘the horse’, a central meeting place that is a statue of Prince Michael atop a horse. Walk down Knez Mihailora which is lined with cafes and high fashion boutiques, and when you’re hungry, head to the Skadarlija district, which has a distinctly bohemian feel.
THE FESTIVALS
Serbia is home to two of the biggest music festivals in the world – Exit and Gucha. If you are in Serbia in July/August, then these are two events you can’t miss. Exit is held in a fortress in the city of Novi Sad and began eight years ago as a reaction against the Milosevic regime. It goes for 4 days and attracts up to 250 000 fans and big name international acts. Gucha is a more traditional Serbian music festival, held in the town of Dragacevo, and is a huge trumpet festival. It’s a week of non stop trumpeting and revellers stay fortified by traditional meat dishes and plum brandy, which Serbia is famous for. If you do both these festivals, you will need serious recovery time.
THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL
I think it is important to really research where you’re planning on going. Get to know the place, its history and background, its culture and its people. Then you can fully appreciate what it is you are in the midst of. And the best thing to do when you reach a new city, is sit in a local café and people watch.
FAVOURITE DESTINATION
Anywhere I can ski …
Images courtesy of Michael Tyler
DUBAI
Who: Emma Forsdick, 23
Hometown: Sydney, Australia
My last trip was … Dubai
My next destination is … Dubai
Because … I have been offered a full time position over there, following my internship
Whilst I’m over there … I really hope to achieve not only foreign business experience, but also a global network of contacts (the no income tax policy is also an added bonus!)
Been there before? Yes, living and working for a few months.
Status: Expert
LIVING IN DUBAI
What I loved most about Dubai was getting into the elevator in the morning before work with 12 people all from different nationalities. Australia may be a multicultural society, but Dubai takes the cake. Living there for such a short period I made friends with people from America, Turkey, Brazil, Thailand, Britain, Iran, the Ukraine, and India, just to name a few. The diverse mix of cultures creates the culture that is Dubai, and I was fascinated.
The first month in Dubai was jaw-dropping. The decision to go was spontaneously made within 3 days of leaving, and I had no idea what I was getting myself into. All of a sudden I was on a plane to the Middle East with absolutely no expectations. Adjusting to the culture was difficult at first – because there is no ‘one’ culture, but a culture in the making. I was afraid, given my limited knowledge of the place, that I would have to ‘cover up’ as a female, but soon discovered that the Emirate is very westernised. As a non-Muslim female who doesn’t need to cover up, however, I was warned that I would attract attention from men. Despite constant leering, I was assured that no one would harass me due to the strict laws and countless undercover police – crime is virtually unheard of.
WHAT TO EXPECT IF YOU’RE VISITING
As a tourist there are countless activities to experience – from shopping (a must – just make sure you buy an extra suitcase!) to desert safaris to indoor skiing. Not only does Dubai boast the largest shopping mall in the world (currently the Mall of the Emirates, but soon it will be the Mall of Arabia once construction is completed), but for one month over Jan/Feb thousands of people from around the globe flock to experience the Dubai Shopping Festival (DFS) which offers massive sales from clothing to gold to spices – this is a good site to check out. Dubai Museum is a must-see, to capture the essence of Dubai’s culture and how it developed from a simple fishing and pearling town to a global business and 
tourist hub. And if you’re after something more adventurous, try desert safaris or skiing the man made ski slopes. And with dining, remember Islam bans alcohol and it can therefore only be consumed in hotel establishments. There are no bottle shops, take away alcohol can only be purchased duty free at the airport upon arrival (quantity restrictions apply). Despite alcohol restrictions, the nightlife is fantastic and there is a myriad of nightclubs to choose from including Barasti Bar, Trader Vic’s, Buddha Bar, Double Decker, Trilogy, and Boudoir, just to name a few.
FAVOURITE DESTINATION
I love island holidays, so Fiji, and Australian islands, The Whitsundays and Lord Howe Island. I love Australia as a country to travel – I really want to do a big trip around Australia in a kombi-van …
Images courtesy of Emma Forsdick
THE UK
Who: Tammy Davidson, 23
Hometown: Sydney, Australia, by way of Capetown, South Africa
My last trip was … to Thailand – beautiful, hot, cheap and fantastic value
My next destination is … Basingstoke, UK – not so hot, and not that cheap
Because … I’ll be visiting friends
Been there before? Lived there for 2 years.
Status: Expert
BASINGSTOKE
The deal: Basingstoke itself is a bit of a London flow-over town, purpose built and an industrial/manufacturing hub for the south west of England. I wouldn’t recommend as a place to add to your itinerary, but it served as a great base to check out the rest of the country.
What I loved: One of my favourite places to go to is a town called Winchester about 15 minutes further south of Basingstoke where King Arthur’s round table sits, mounted on a wall of their traditional English courthouse. It’s a typical English town with a breathtaking cathedral as its main claim to fame. It also boasts the longest nave in the country. It has a main street for shopping and coffee breaks, and serene walks alongside an overflowing stream. It also comes with its very own residence of ducks and swans.
Best for: A beautiful Sunday afternoon drive.
JUST A 40 MINUTE TRAIN RIDE AWAY …
London: Of course, London needs no introduction. Living in Basingstoke meant it was the perfect distance away for a day trip. One of my favourite past times was catching an early dinner and a show. There are a number of websites that have fantastic last minute ticket deals. For those based in London, tickets are always available on the day from booths scattered around Piccadilly Circus and the ‘West End’ itself. Take in a mulled wine at Covent Gardens’ Punch and Judy, and enjoy the street artist’s shows during the winter – it’s a once in a lifetime experience.
LIVING IN ENGLAND
Living in England works when you embrace it for what it is, because it’s never going to be Sydney or New York, and with the acceptance of what it does offer, comes a heartfelt appreciation of the experiences it can give you.
The English culture is one of warm food, warm beer, warm pubs, good mates and more often than not, a cold wind and rain. The country is scattered with pubs cozy enough for Mother Hubbard herself. Sheppard’s pie, a pint of local ale and a rhubarb and apple crumble with a few friends down at your ‘local’, becomes firmly ingrained in your way of life.
From the small town of Basingstoke we enjoyed the lone night club ‘Liquids’, fondly dubbed El Liquardos in an attempt to sound like you weren’t heading out to get drunk on ‘alcopops’ and dance to the pumped up version of the Baywatch theme.
For the ladies out there, every high street will sport a Topshop, H&M, Dorothy Perkins and NewLook, and all are packed to the brim with all the current fashions at reasonable ‘poundage’. For the budget traveler hiding in all of us, head to Primark and Matallan for some 5 pound beauties!
ALL TIME FAVOURITE DESTINATION
I have four …
1. Florence
2. New York
3. Cape Town
4. Sydney
Images courtesy of Tammy Davidson
